After reading the conflicting viewpoints of CT 58 on the one hand and author Thomas Revest on the other, regarding the Burgundian topo by Surgy and Hauteroche, FSGT invested in the management of the Hauteroche site and offered it to us, he said. his handling of the discussion.
we thank you Climbing Magazine to give us the opportunity to react to the article “Releasing the Hauteroche and Surgy topo” as you did with Pierre Duret for the article on the new topo of “Buoux Inté’GRAAL and its environs” which is currently on sale. We take this opportunity to present FSGT’s position on business matters.
The publication of guidebooks by people who don’t equip the cliffs and do it personally is becoming more frequent and causing team members to react, seeing an improvement in them for commercial purposes (which is probably not always wrong). Pierre Duret, a very active rigger in the south and chairman of the Vaucluse Regional Committee, has just done just that with regard to the publication of the topo de Buoux. He condemns this topo’s rivalry with the competition published by FFME’s CT Vaucluse, whose sale makes it possible to fund the maintenance of the cliffs.
The same is true of the Hauteroche chasm, which has become public property. The first thing that makes people react when reading your article is the very vague first sentence “Climber, (re)equip and independent publisher”, which makes people believe that Thomas Revest equipped or re-equipped Hauteroche and therefore would give him all legitimacy. Arrange a topo for the Hauteroche. But it’s been 45 years since the chasm was discovered, opened, equipped and maintained by passionate volunteers, and the latter is unfortunately not one of them. He’s more of a regular in the opposing topo edition (CT Bourgogne Franche-Comté FFME du Saussois topo took the same damage) and we think he won’t stop here, but can we really blame him? Because he just followed the path of the British publisher “Jingo Woobly” that preceded him. Admittedly, initially, these so-called “English” topoes were written in English and are intended for British tourists. But very quickly tourist areas like Fontainebleau, Vaucluse, Burgundy and the East are being targeted… A final topo is being formed for all of France… triggering the call for ECI38 openings in 2017. The straw that broke the camel’s back was the rumor that has since been thankfully dismissed, that Camp To Camp may give all contributors the possibility to bring rind topos online.
At that time, there was a reflection among the FSGT Mountain Climbing Commission to draw lessons from these developments, which jeopardize the funding for the maintenance of the FSGT cliffs and the motivation of the passionate volunteers. The findings and decisions are endorsed by the brand new Ile de France collective open to other regions that support and protect the sporting divide:
• Instead of waging war on competing business guidebooks, a losing war as there is no legal basis in our economic system to ban these guidebooks, it was decided to publish the new FSGT guidebook online with free contribution.
• In addition, a limited number of printed versions will continue to be published to be distributed in formations, clubs and to the public if they wish. The idea is to offer a simple and inexpensive topo, and therefore reverse the high bid for the most beautiful topo, which will make it possible to return at reasonable prices to channel rock climbing to the popular sport that was too “expensive” for the FSGT.
• Reverse roles by no longer waging wars over paper copies or opposing balls. We make topo financially accessible in the logic of popular sports, those who want beautiful photos will have to pay the price.
• Too bad if we have less money to maintain the abyss. Launching the topo is very time consuming and brings little to no cost given the costs involved, but there is a genuine interest in getting our sports policy out to the public. Hauteroche needs goodwill more than money every year.
• But we must not forget that what is free has a cost. We will need to find money:
– for the rental of the cliff and the equipped bivalve area (currently 400 € per year paid by FSGT),
– For several mooring points necessary for improvement and opening of new routes,
– Perhaps this new situation will serve as an argument for applying for subsidies,
– We will provide a free financial contribution for every download of Topo. We will make accounts public.
– Transportation and accommodation costs will remain the responsibility of those who consider it reasonable to take the time to keep the Hauteroche cliff in good condition in exchange for a friendly project.
In addition to this post, it is planned to send an e-mail to 6000 FSGT climbers and post an article on the FSGT website providing information about the problem and its consequences, thus giving the climbers free choice to make their own spot. opinion. We will no longer tire ourselves from starting fights or calling for a boycott. There are far more serious situations that require all of our collective energy right now.
Good climbs on the French cliffs that are accessible to everyone free of charge and free of charge.